Backpacking Bill

Sahagún is the official halfway point. However, we actually passed halfway mileage wise somewhere before that. This is going to be a relatively short day of 9.5 miles.

There is a change in the character of the Camino, there are more trees and vegetation along the trail. The change makes it more interesting.

These small cellars cut into the side of a hill began to appear. Evidently this was at one time a place that had a lot of vineyards. I noticed very few now.

Irene is from Argentina. She came into the restaurant shortly after we sat. People on the Camino seem to have very interesting histories. Irene has a daughter in Italy who she is going to visit after she completes the Francés.

We also said goodbye to a delightful couple from Ireland that we had met. Their group came into the restaurant as we were finishing our dinner. The guy is from the Canary Islands. After dinner the Irish group was going to the local Irish Pub (named the ” Temple” after the bar in Dublin). We were not about to join them as we are going right to bed. The Irish group was going to leave the Camino in León.

Evidently one can get a half Camino Compostela in Sahagún. May stop at the Convent in the morning to see if we can get one.

Tina still communicates with a number of pilgrims that have proceeded ahead of us.

Tina’s Thoughts

Walking everyday 10 miles or more is hard (for me at least).  Getting a good night’s sleep helps so much.  The night in Lédigos we did not.  Walking into Sahagún was tougher for that reason.

There is much goodwill between and amongst pilgrims.  It is heartening to see how strangers from all over the world have bonded on this walk. 

I have enjoyed the fact that there is almost no political talk on our journey.  Having said that it seems almost everyone we have met says the same thing; There is much dissention in their countries and  the cost of living since COVID has made it very tough for young people to get out on their own.  This includes people from Amsterdam, the UK, Spain, Italy, France, Argentina and Australia. 

Today is our daughter, Emma’s birthday. Happy Birthday Emma!

Well, our lodging last night was very nice. Much nicer than the converted chicken coop we are staying in tonight. No private bathrooms means that I will be doing a lot of commuting during the night. We didn’t wash clothes yesterday because this place has laundry facilities. One machine for the whole place. However, the dinner was good.

One positive for our stay is that we had dinner with John and Helen, a delightful couple from Pennsylvania.

We survived the small bed and had a surprisingly good sleep.

I have come to learn of some of the things that have motivated people to do the Camino. Many young adults have recently quit their jobs and came on the Camino to gather their thoughts as to their next career move. Last night a fellow at dinner refused to let the hostess set another Pilgrim at his table, he wanted to be alone. (We benefited because he was set next to us, he was a delightful guy from Switzerland). A great many others are wrestling with some kind of trauma or disturbing issues in their livesI have encountered some of the latter group talking together. I guess my point here is that the Camino  isn’t just a holiday for many pilgrims. It remains a place of healing as it was in medieval times. 

So, why am I walking the Camino? Good question. I suspect that it’s not very profound. Today I would say that I am trying to figure out what it is that I need to figure out. Once I determine what my goal should be for what’s left to do in my life, I can find a path.

I don’t expect that there will be much to photograph today. And, it is going to be another long walk.

When we got to Carrión de los Condes we learned that they were having a pilgrim concert at the church across from our hotel. We attended. It was actually really good. Especially the Bach and Handel. They also had Latin chants that I didn’t understand at all. They were, however, lovely

At dinner everyone seemed to descended on the same place for dinner. The restaurant at our hotel. We must have encountered 15 – 20 people we knew.

Reflecting on today reminded me that the Camino is not all happiness and community. It is also a time for reflection. Today both Tina and I recalled independently the passing of our mothers. For both of us it was a time of sadness because neither of us were present at the moment our mothers passed. Tina and I are both extremely blessed to have had great Moms.

The fact that we were both feeling a bit down was probably the reason I was questioning “why am I doing this”? Why not stop here and go to Portugal and forget all this Camino bull. Don’t think I am going to do that – not today at least.

Days are starting to all look the same. Didn’t take photos leaving Castrojerez.

Many avoid the Meseta. However, Tina and I are enjoying it. It’s an easier walk and, although the terrain is flat, there is beauty in the landscape. This morning we elected to put our ponchos in our travel bag because the forecast was for no rain. That may have been a mistake because it is looking like rain.

The flat terrain lets one think more about life than an achy exhausted body. The other advantage we have is that this is a cool day. It would be, I am sure, a much different experience if it were 95°F + which it was this summer.

The Camino follows the tow path of the Canal de Castilla for a few miles. This canal was built to transport grain to market. I understand that it was nearing completion in the middle to late 19th century. This was about the time that railroads were starting to be built. The canals had a short working history. Like the canals being built in the USA about the same time. Technology changes and those that abapt don’t wind up in the dustbin of history.

After their short life as a working canal, it was used for irrigation (for which it is still used) and for mills. There are some tour boats as well.

Tonight we had the Pilgrim meal at our hotel. Tina had salad, chicken with french fries (every meal has french fries) and flan. I had Castilian soup ( garlic soup) trout with french fries, and ice cream. Wine is included. We met a number of fellow pilgrims that we know from the trail. One group was from the UK, a group we met yesterday. And, one fellow shares an interest in Robert Burns. He and I (to the great shagrin of Tina and his wife) shared quotations ad nauseam.

We also discussed Spanish lisp. In Castilian there is a definite lisp. Gracias is pronounced “Grathias”. This is proper Spanish. The legend is that King Ferdinand or King Peter of Castile spoke with a lisp. Evidentially there is no historical basis for this. It likely evolved from the “s” and “z” sounds from ancient Castilian.

Tina’s Thoughts

Today I felt thankful for many things, including,

The cooler overcast weather

Continued beautiful landscape

The crosses along the Camino that remind us of God’s grace, love and mercy

For Bill.  I wouldn’t want to be walking with anyone else. He has been a helpmate in big and little ways along this journey. 

For all of you back home whom we love.

Buen Camino

This is a short day, 5.5 miles. We are doing short days instead of days off off. I think it’s a good idea in general because there is little to do in some of these sleepy Spanish villages. The down side is that there are some interesting cities where we could spend a day.

There was evidently a Hospital at this convent. The disease they were known to treat was Saint Anton’s Fire. There is evidently a fungus that can get into rye grain. This fungus, I understand, causes some really bad effects. So, people who eat rye bread would get Saint Anton’s Fire. In Castrojerez they make their bread with wheat. Pilgrims would come to the convent, eat the bread and be miraculously cured of Saint Anton’s Fire.

We had lunch at a small tavern in town. Per a suggestion from another Pilgrim we had met earlier we had croquettes and a salad. Half the croquettes, the best tasting ones, were black. It turns out that they were blood sausage croquettes.

One thing that American pilgrims have to know and deal with is the Spanish rhythm of life and adjust accordingly. Whenever you’re hungry the restaurants close and don’t open until you want to go to bed. We usually get to our location about 2:00 pm. That is good because most of the lodging places open then. Restaurants close from 3:00 until 8:00. The only place to get something to eat is a sleepy bar and often they have a very limited menu. This is not the case at lodging that supplies dinner.

I am amazed at how well I am sleeping. Some of the beds are good, like the one in Burgos, and some not so good. The one last night was average, a bit too soft. But, the absolute quiet of these remote villages is great.

Today is a long hike, 12.5 miles. Oh, if it only was kilometers.

Our lodging boasted a Spa.  While Tina partook of the amenity, I had a glass of 1.3 € wine with a fellow pilgrim, Carol from San Sebastian, Spain. Her best friend is a wine maker, P. López de Herendia – Viño Tondonia. I included Jim in the conversations via WhatsApp chat. Jim was very familiar with the wine. Carol was emphatic that Spanish wine is far better than Italian wine. That evening I sat next to an Italian fellow who was equally emphatic that Italian wine is superior to Spanish wine. I am thankful that I know so little that I can agree with both of them.

We had a communal dinner at our lodging. The meal was great but, the highlight was Tina. She sat next to a Portuguese guy and a Dutch guy. Across was me, an Italian guy and a Danish guy. She had a ball being in the middle of all these handsome men,

Tina’s Thoughts

Yes I wholeheartedly agree with Bill’s last statement.  I did have a ball at dinner last night.  I usually love the dinners that are with other pilgrams, the dinner last night was particularly fun.  Jao from Portugal was a big personality, very engaging as was his Camino best friend from Italy.   By that time of day, I am generally weary so it helps to get re energized by good food and good company.

When we planned this Camino, we looked at various itineraries and scenarios for how we wanted to spend our days. The average Camino Francés takes 32-35 days. We are doing it in 42 days and as I mentioned in another post,  we have booked all of our lodgings in advance,  Many people plan rest days but we chose to do shorter walk days interspersed instead of 2 nights in the same place.  We have been happy with that decision until arriving in Burgos.  We arrived in Burgos, last Saturday after 14 miles of walking on little sleep from the night before.

I arrived  tired and crabby. 😺 After a shower and a short rest we went hunting for dinner. In Spain at 5:00 pm it’s impossible to find a place that will serve a full dinner so we opted for pinchos and then I went straight to bed having missed the best of Burgos.  On our way out of town, the next morning we came across the most beautiful cathedral I have seen in Europe. The plaza and area around it reminded me of a swiss village. It was breathtaking and  I  instantly regretted that we didn’t have time to enjoy it. Burgos by far, in my opinion is the loveliest small city we have passed through on the Camino.  Take note for any of you who may be in this part of Spain.  Burgos is a gem.   

This morning started off with a  fun happening. The cafe we wanted to go to for breakfast didn’t open for half an hour so, we stopped in a cafe for a coffee (our usual double espresso for me and a latte for Tina). We were descended upon by a group of revelers from the night before. They were students (law, art and political science). They were a bright shining start to our day. One had taken down a string of flags that had been strung at a plaza. He wrapped the flags around himself and said it was a costume for the El Cid celebration. He wanted us to take the flags as a gift in celebration of El Cid, we declined, I didn’t want to get arrested by the Guardia Civil. I guess you had to be there to see the fun of it. The gal in the photo is from Morocco. Tina spoke with her briefly and in passing advised her to wait for the right man to be in her life. She came to tears and said that we were her family.

On the way out of Burgos we encountered the group of fellows we met on the first day. John took our photo

We walked with a woman pilgrim this afternoon from San Sebastian. She told us a story about early pilgrims. In medieval times there was nothing to mark the way. They followed the path of the milky way.

We made it to Rabé de las Calzadas. According to the locals it is 476 kilometers to Santiago (295 miles)

Looking forward, there will not be much of note to report. We are entering the Meseta, a long stretch of the flat uninteresting terrain. It is a time for contemplation. Read that to be boring. However, many believe it to be an important part of the Camino. My posts will probably be shorter.

Today is another long slog. The operator of our lodging last night sat everyone down and told us the recommended alternate route into Burgos. It’s a little longer but a much more attractive route. The official route evidentially goes through a mostly industrial area.

We walked with the French family for a little while. The entire family is walking to Santiago. They started at their home in Belgium. Not sure if they started walking there. They seem like a really great family. They will have so many memories. Their children will be able, with their photos, to relate the adventure to subsequent generations. The youngest daughter is three, she gets a ride sometimes.

The rocks st the base of the cross are put there by pilgrims. Some are in remembrance of someone in their life. Some represent leaving a worry or a care. On the Camino one learns that you can do very well without a lot of extra stuff in your life. A couple of  days ago my Fitbit band partially broke. I am having to rig it on my wrist. I think I will just do without it. Just another thing to worry about.

The game the guys in the photo are playing is that they ask a passerby to toss a ball into the basketball basket. If you get the ball in you get a shot of some kind of liquor. If the player is a good looking gal they grab the basket and assure a win.

Fortunately tomorrow will be a shorter day, just nine miles, did I say short? At this point it seems short compared to the fourteen today.

Tina’s Thoughts

I had very tired feet walking into Burgos yesterday but the walk in was lovely.  They have a walking/bike path that follows the river into town for many miles and it’s delightful for the locals.  The weather was idyllic and so many people were out strolling,running ,roller blading and biking.   It helped get us through the last couple of miles. 

One thing I have noticed about the Spanish towns big and small is they center around a plaza with the focal point being a church or cathedral.   Streets with shops and restaurants radiate off of the plaza.  It’s all very communal and walkable. 

Sorry this post got out of order because I updated it while off WiFi. Up to this day everything has been new and interesting. We may have been jaded by seeing yet another classic village but, everything had an element of wonder. Today doesn’t seem to be inspiring. The Camino is mostly a farm access road next to a busy highway.

Compare yourself to this random pilgrim picked at random. We met a Dutch gal who was walking the Camino after recently losing her husband of some 40+ years. She started her pilgrimage in the Netherlands. She is a chef at a restaurant, she has two grown children, she has a catering business, and she is a foster parent to two children with disabilities . She also volunteers for various organizations. I can’t imagine her day to day life. The previous night she stayed at a monastery where she cooked the evening meal for 51 other pilgrims. One of the other pilgrims took her towel (they are not supplied at the common shower facility in the monastery, you also sleep on a mattress on the floor). Her comment regarding the loss of her only towel was “I hope they need it more than I do”

Encountered a lot of these small snails on grasses beside the road. I believe they are Vineyard Snails. They are a problem for farmers when the farmers are harvesting, the snails get into whatever it is being harvested. They are also gathered and find their way into tapas.

Jeremy, our friend from Calgary, joined us for dinner. He is now traveling solo his three traveling companions have gone to other places. Had a great dinner that lasted a lot longer than anticipated. butt, what a joyful evening.

Looking forward, it happens that we will be getting to Burgos during another festival. This will be another unplanned highlight to our Camino. This one is called “El Cid Week”.

Tina’s Thoughts

Hello y’all. Thank you for sending love and prayers to us on this journey.  We feel it all.  We have almost come to an end to week 2 and we are still here. Ha ha. There are so many people walking this Camino that apparently at this stage it is difficult to find lodging,  We are thankful we booked ahead.

One of the most striking things I am finding as we walk is how steep the  terrains are, Not as steep as the Pyrenees but there are daily uphills nonetheless. They say walking the Camino is a metaphor for life and I believe it’s true.  We all face daily challenges, some more difficult than others. When we get to the top often there is a gentle resting flat piece before we go downhill, however there are times that we face a sharp and dangerous decline.  These are more challenging and.difficult than the uphills and we have to take them slowly and carefully;  One step at a time, otherwise we will have a big crash!

The resting spots (of which there are many beautiful ones) are a gift for me, as I am not by nature a person who loves to walk these long distances.  😊. Psalm 23 keeps me going during the toughest of days, 

Until the next time, Buen Camino!

I can’t believe that we are into our second week. And, that we are still going. We will be entering Burgos tomorrow, Just found out that they are having a festival when we are there. This one translates to “El Cid Week”. Lots of medieval stuff.  I hope they won’t be reveling through the night – I would like to get some sleep.

In Agé we again encountered our friends from Florida. They seem to be having a great Camino. We also happened upon the Dutch gal who had her towel stolen from the Monastery where she was staying. As I travel the Camino I realize that it is a moving community. We encountered the same individuals time and again.

Our lodging is more like a true Albergue, there is a common lavatory and shower, no separate men’s and women’s. There are separate cubicles with doors and locks. It is, however, new to us.

At dinner were people from Germany, France, Taiwan and USA. Maybe other places but I didn’t talk to everyone.