Author: backpackingbill

Wednesday, our first full day in Rome. Met Jim briefly for breakfast. Jim sent us off to visit the Colosseum and Roman Forum as he has class. Had a great tour guide for the Colosseum and Forum and only six people in our tour. The history and stories the guide told us was well worth the price. Colosseum was built in 8 years, no government regulations, the Republicans must have been running things. Cost of entry for the Romans to attend was 0. The Democrats must have gotten in.We had lunch then went to see the statue of Moses as suggested by our apartment landlord. The place was closed minutes before we got there – bummer. We used the subway to get back to our apartment. Found that visiting Hanoi prepared me for traffic in Rome. The difference is that the vehicles are bigger. The same principal for crossing a street applies. Fix your eye on your destination, don’t make eye contact with drivers and trust in God’s mercy.

On Thursday we visited the Vatican. Again we had a great tour. There were only five people on the tour and we had a fabulous guide. We were able to scoot around the great masses of people. The Sistine Chapel is indeed a world treasure.When I was getting ready for the trip I jokingly said that we would spend Easter with the Pope. It looks like we may. During the tour Tina asked about getting seats for the Easter service at the Vatican. There will be thousands here. The guide said that would not be likely but you can ask the Swiss Guards on the way out. So, Tina did and was given three passes for seats. Wow, that’s my wife, I brag.

We also visited St Peters, spectacular.After lunch we went to San Luigi dei Francesi and I had the great treat to see Caravaggio’s St Mathews series. The Calling St Mathew, The Inspiration of St Mathew and The Martyrdom of St Mathew. I am always humbled when I see a Caravaggio. To see three significant paintings in the corner of the small church where they were originally commissioned and hung is truly amazing, a special memory that will stay with me and be one of the highlights of this trip.Afterwards we went to the Pantheon and came back to our apartment for a long nap. Jim had to finish a paper and call about his internship for the summer. Jim has proved to be a great and informed guide for our visit to Rome.We are certainly blessed to have built in travel guides to Rome and Vietnam.

Made a short trip to Tivoli. I believe this was the site of Hadrian’s Villa. The Villa d’Este, which is on the site of the old Roman Villa is the most spectacular set of gardens and fountains that I have ever seen. This alone is worth a trip to Italy.

And we were able to go to the Easter service at the Vatican. We were able to get close seats because we were on site early. You cannot get any more”High Church” than this.

The Pope passed within a few feet of us when he traveled around the crowd in hi “Popemobile”.

Lots of security.

Jim took us for a picnic lunch in the Villa Borghese Park. This is a typically Roman thing to do on an Easter afternoon.

We then made short stops at the Trevi Fountain and the Spanish Steps.

Big crowds.

We have a part of a day in Dublin then off to the airport and a flight to Rome. A sunny day here.

Looking forward to seeing Jim in Rome, wishing Emma could be with us as well. However, she is continuing her adventure in Vietnam.

Had breakfast at the hotel. Interesting to see how they serve honey.

We will do a little sight seeing and shopping before we go to the airport.

Did not venture far but did get a photo of a building that had been the site of a gun battle during an insurgency. You can still see the bullet holes in the facade of the building.

Bus to the airport and on our way to Rome. Meeting Jim in the eternal city.

As I was about to leave Dublin I stopped for a Guinness as I felt it would be a sacrilege to leave Ireland without having one. I was chatting with a fellow traveler in the Bloody Horse Pub and mentioned that I was on my way to Rome. He said that Rome will be a fine place once it’s finished. After all, Rome wasn’t built in a day.

Made it to Dublin at 5:05 am and proceeded to make a classic mistake. We went to the hotel and slept. Now acclimating to the time change will take another day. Hotel is great. The Iveagh, they let us check in at 6:00 am.

Went to the Trinity University, the location of the Book of Kells. Quite a line to get in but was able to get tickets for the afternoon. In the meantime we stopped for a small lunch at a place recommend be our neighbor, Julia. The Pigs Ear. Had a great meal.

We we then saw the Book of Kells. Dates from about AD 800 and is said to be one of Ireland’s greatest treasures. Even more interesting, I thought, was the Long Hall.

We also visited the park that was in full spring Bloom.

Today is our 25th wedding anniversary.

It’s Saturday and we leave Monday. We had the floors sanded and urethaned, the house is upside down. The furniture getting back into place, which pleases Tina. Dust everywhere from the sanding. The odor of the urethane makes habitation an issue. But, we are starting to prep for the trip.

We have some Euros, tickets and passports. Dog will be groomed and we aresoon to start packing.

We are leaving some great spring weather here. It is said that spring in New England is as near to Eden as you can get.

Sunday evening and we are packed and ready. Well, we say that we are ready. Tina has been working like a Mad Woman getting a handle on the dust from the floor job. Looks great now.

First stop will be Ireland, the Emerald Isle. I have never been to Ireland nor the U.K. Anticipating a lot of green. I recall the only advice that my father’s stepfather gave me. Charlie was a hard man. He had been a teamster in the Klondike during the Gold Rush. The advice was “stay away from the Irish”. Looking back on my life, I should have heeded that pearl of wisdom.

The other thought about Ireland that I recall is a ditty that was taught to me by Ray Rhoades. Ray was a trader on the Navajo reservation. I knew Ray when I was in the Air Force in New Mexico. It goes:

“Ireland was Ireland when England was a pup,

“And, Ireland will be Ireland when England’s time is up

“So, if ya don’t like me Blarney and ya don’t like me sass,

“You can bend down and kiss my wild Irish… Rose”

I don’t think Ray had any other Irish thoughts. He was dyed in the wool Cajan from Louisiana. Ray was also the only white trader on the reservation that I knew who was liked and respected by the native Americans. Maybe because the feeling were mutual.

Well, we are on our way. Julia Sauter gave us a ride to the airport. Hugh lines so it was good that we are early.

Tina and I will be celebrating our anniversary in Dublin. 25 Years.

Our last evening was spent north of Washington DC in Columbia MD. Tina’s cousin lives here and invited us to dinner and stay over. The evening had a number of highlights in addition to seeing Susan and Bruce. Rich and Amanda joined us with their recent addition, Landon. Landon stole the show. We had another treat, a WW II vet, a Marine Colonal who had led his unit ashore during a number of amphibious landings. The colonel had visited Rich’s history class and gave first hand accounts to the class. It turns out that Bruce’s dad was supporting one of the operations at Peleliu Island from his Navy Destroyer.

While in Charlotte we were very fortunate to have been invited to have dinner with recent transplants from West Hartford, Kim and Mike. Tina has known Kim since our daughters were in elementary school. Kim and Mike have built a great life here. Mike left Eversource for a position with Duke Energy, a very large energy production and distribution company. Mike and I have a number of mutual friends and experiences in the power industry. Kim and Mike’s daughters are flourishing in the Charlotte area. Kim and Mike prove that a move to the area can be very positive. We had a delightful evening in their lovely home.

Tina and I stayed in Charlotte and left Sheba in the car. The next morning at breakfast we met a gal who slept in her car with her dog. Although that may have been more due to her traveling companions than the dog; never the less, we felt guilty for leaving our pup alone.

Next, we traveled to the North Carolina coast and stayed in the small town of Edenton. We found a great B + B that consisted of a number of historic buildings. We stayed in a converted tobacco packing building.

Edenton is a real find. It is like a mid twentieth century small town stuck in time. A general store, a theater, a soda fountain, friendly people and a relaxed atmosphere. The few restaurants are good but not West Hartford center good. We decided to spend a second day here. The second night pangs of guilt overtook us and we sneaked Sheba into our room.

Edenton is a very historic place. It had been a major port city during colonial and civil war eras. Having escaped destruction during the Civil War and the Revolutionary War makes it unique in that it retains significant buildings form both those eras.

Edenton is also the location of the Edenton Tea Party. I thought that the Boston Tea Party was the only one. The Edenton Tea Party consisted of a group of some fifty literate women in the area (only a quarter of the population was literate at that time, male and female) that got together in 1774 and sent a letter to England protesting the Tea Tax. They would not drink tea nor purchase English cloth. In England (and in the Colonies) they were ridiculed and caricatured. The women were told to tend to their families and stay out of politics. Nevertheless, they were the first women to lead a protest in the new world. The locals are quick to point out that these women did not, like their male counterparts in Boston, dress up in Indian garb to hide their identity. In fact, they signed their letter to England.

A number of the locals told us that there are few bugs here. However, I have heard a couple stories. A Canadian fellow was checking into the B + B and mentioned that he had passed a barn that appeared to have a swarm of something engulfing the building. He was told – wood bees. They are known to infest structures here to the point that they become unusable. I mentioned that I get them on my deck in New England. Bee traps were suggested. I have not heard of them. They look easy to make; I am going to try one at home.

I was also told of an apparition that rises from the water here on some afternoons. A black shape will rise from the water. Shapeless and undulating, this ghostly specter captures the attention of all that notice it as it starts to approach the land – mosquitoes.

I was describing the bees and the mosquitoes to another local. She said that they are not so bad but the Mayflies are. They will cover cars and doorways. They will also cover your feet. They are gross looking but they don’t bite. We can be thankful for that.

In spite of bugs, Edenton stays a possibility.

Tina and I are taking a trip to the southern states. The main purpose of the trip is to scout out places to retire. Secondary purposes are:

1) Celebrate Tina’s retirement from Miss Porter’s School

2) Getting out of the house while the floors are being refinished.

We are also doing a Greek language course while we drive. It could be my age but Greek is really tough.

First night in Harrisonburg, VA, second outside Greenville, SC, third in Greenville, SC, fourth outside Charlotte, NC. Now in Edenton, NC.

So far we have had a great time, some great people and visit some great friends recently transplanted from New England.

I will go into more detail in my next post. And, I apologise for the gap in posts.

Planning is in full swing for the next adventure. Tina has been on line booking planes and lodging. I have been sitting back saying “that sounds great”.

We have long thought that it would be fun and meaningful to spend Easter with Tina’s relatives in Greece. Since Jim is spending his simester abroad in Rome this spring we have two reasons to go to southern Europe. So we will visit Jim at Easter in Rome then jump over to Kalamata for Greek Easter. Two Easters.

I will redo the blog site to reflect the new adventure. I may take away the Camino Portuguese stuff if nobody objects.

The trip is shaping up to be really great. Tina will get closer to her Greek roots and I don a Greek fisherman’s hat and be colorful.

Checked out of the hotel and did some last minute shopping. Going off the grid for lunch. Meeting Emma at Hanoi Taco Bar.

Tacos in Vietnam, it turns out, may have been a bad idea. Experiencing a touch of tourista. Enough said about that.

It was really tough for me to say fair well to Emma. She is truly a remarkable young woman. She seems happy here in Hanoi and appears to have good friends and enjoys the work she is doing. This may not be the life I would choose for myself but I am going on 72 and am from another era. I often say that we raised our children to be capable and independent. Easy to say but the internalizing the reality puts a knot in my stomach worse than the Hanoi taco I ate.

Jim picked up his suit, it looks great on him.

I think Jim is beginning to like to dress well. That would be another characteristic he will have gotten from his grandfather. Dad always dressed well and was never without shined shoes. By the way, it is truly uncanny how much Jim looks like Dad.

We made it to the airport early. There are so few international flights (in USA we are told to get to the airport three hours ahead) that we were not able to check in until a little less than two hours before the flight.

Made it to Korea. Tina saw a gal from Porter’s getting on another flight. There were also some students from Suffield that Jim recognized. That must have been the prep school special.

Twelve hours to Chicago, that says it all.

Layovers in Inchan and Chicago seemed endless. Cab to Grand Central, Metro North to New Haven and Ubered home. Thirty six hours of travel, ugh!

Today we did a tour of Nimh Binh. Ninh Binh is geologically like Halong Bay; except the mountains stand on farmland instead of water. A two hour bus ride gets us to the area. Tina booked the tour yesterday evening. This would not have been an issue except for the fact that it is New Year’s Eve, which is big travel holiday, so many of the tours were booked but tour she got us was great.

The tour guide was named “Hi”. This young gal, like Tony in Halong Bay, was from a rural farm village. She lives in Hanoi while working and going to university full time. She is also supporting her two sisters who live with her, another testimony to the industry of the people here.

There was only one other Western couple on the tour. They were from Reims, France. Their limited English and my lack of any French limited the conversation.

First a visit to Hoa Lu, the first capital of Vietnam. The temples are beautiful and the history is, in Tina’s words, almost old testament.

Next we went off on a river tour through some spectacular scenery and also some river caves. The boatmen often paddle using their feet. I cannot imagine doing this for an hour and a half. I also felt much less than chivalrous letting a Vietnamese gal do this for the three of us, so I was compelled to give a nice tip.

We also had a quick bike ride through the town, which seemed to be an odd time filler in the tour.

Then we had a climb to a shrine at the top of a mountain. 500 treacherous steps. Jim is agile enough for it, I am not.

Then back to Hanoi in the middle of New Year’s Eve traffic.

We went directly to dinner. Jim chose to go to “Chicken” street. He had heard of it from Emma. The food was delicious! Guess what we had… chicken. They must use the white meat for Pho because they only had legs thighs and wings here. And chicken feet, Jim ate a foot.

The traffic back to the hotel was spectacular.

Went to bed before midnight. Happy New year to all.